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FAQ
- How do you convert an R-12 system to 134a?
- 12-volt DC and 110-volt AC units can be converted to 134a, the oil will have be drained from the compressor condensing unit and refilled with polyester low-temperature oil.
- How do you check for a leak?
- Check all of the connections for evidence of oil. Oil travels with the refrigerant and will accumulate at a leak.
- You can also use soapy water at the connections, it can sometimes pick up a leak.
- My CoolBlue suddenly stopped working, what should you check for first?
- Check for a blinking light on the electronic module (black box) on the condensing unit.
- The most common is one flash (with a 4 second delay between flashes) – this indicated a low voltage problem. Check all of the connections, battery voltage, breakers, and wire terminals for loose connection
Number Of Flashes |
Error Type |
5 |
Thermal cut-out of electronic unit
(If the refrigeration system has been too heavily loaded, or if the ambient temperature is high, the electronic unit will run too hot). |
4 |
Minimum motor speed error
(If the refrigeration system is too heavily loaded, the motor cannot maintain minimum speed 1,850 rpm). |
3 |
Motor start error
(The rotor is blocked or the differential pressure in the refrigeration system is too high (>5 bar)). |
2 |
Fan over-current cut-out
(The fan loads the electronic unit with more than 1A peak ). |
1 |
Battery protection cut-out
(The voltage is outside the cut-out setting). |
- 12-volt system seems to be getting loss efficient over time, there are no bubbles in the site glass, what should you do?
- If the outside temperature increases the system will have to run longer to remove the extra heat coming through the insulation.
- How do you test to see if the thermostat is bad?
- If the system won’t turn on – short out the leads on the back of the thermostat
- If the system won’t turn off – turn the thermostat knob to “0” (off position), then turn clockwise until unit starts.
- The led light on the electronic module, what do the different flashes mean & what can you do to fix the problem?
Number Of Flashes |
Error Type |
5 |
Thermal cut-out of electronic unit
(If the refrigeration system has been too heavily loaded, or if the ambient temperature is high, the electronic unit will run too hot). |
4 |
Minimum motor speed error
(If the refrigeration system is too heavily loaded, the motor cannot maintain minimum speed 1,850 rpm). |
3 |
Motor start error
(The rotor is blocked or the differential pressure in the refrigeration system is too high (>5 bar)). |
2 |
Fan over-current cut-out
(The fan loads the electronic unit with more than 1A peak ). |
1 |
Battery protection cut-out
(The voltage is outside the cut-out setting). |
- CoolBlue is running too long, what should you check first?
- Check the temperature of the holding plate vs. the box temperature at the bottoms. A large temperature difference (over 10ºF) indicates an insulation problem.
- What can you use to make ice? Where can you find the vertical ice trays?
- Small sealable plastic containers, zip top bags, or vertical ice cube trays.
- Unit has been running for 6 hours straight without dropping in temperature, what should you check for?
- Make sure there are no lights flashing on the electronic module (black box) on the condensing unit.
- How thick is too thick a layer of ice on the holding plate?
- If more than ½” ice has built up on the plate it should be defrosted.
- How should you defrost a plate?
- Use one of the following methods:
- Use a plastic scraper, like the ones used to remove frost from a car window
- Pour hot water from the tap over the face of the plate
- How can you prevent frost build up on a plate?
- Make sure that the gasketing on the lid is sealing tightly, extra moisture is the cause of frost build up on the holding plate.
- We were hit by lightening & the system isn’t working now. What should we do to get it working again?
- If the unit is not working, most likely the electronic module will need to be replaced.
- How can we tell if our system is R-12 or 134a?
- There will be a label on the condensing unit stating “134a”
- Can I use FRP instead of ABS when I re-insulate my icebox?
- Yes, but FRP usually isn’t very flexible, if you are comfortable working with FRP & do not need to squeeze it in through a small space you may use it.
- Can I use Acrylic Plastic instead of ABS when I re-insulate my box?
- What about the drain in the bottom of my ice box when I re-insulate?
- Cover it up. You will not need to drain water from the box like you used to when you hauled ice down to the boat every couple of days. If the drain is not covered up it will be a source of cold leaking out of the box.
- Can I use silicone to seal the ABS when I re-insulate my box?
- No, you will never get the smell out & it is not FDA approved. 5200 & Quick Dry Caulk are both FDA.
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